Wednesday, October 14, 2009

lago de atitlan!



























Somehow Thanksgiving has come and gone already...although we didn´t exactly do ye olde Turkey dinner. I did accidentally eat tongue though...but I would rather not talk about that ever again.

We spent the weekend on a field trip to Lago de Atitlan, which is a lake surrounded by a ring of volcanoes about 2 and a half hours outside of Xela. We got to Panajachel (the biggest town on the lakeshore) midday on Friday and went straight to the nature reserve where we saw MONKEYS and went ziplining! The zipline was awesome...there were 8 different lines that went basically back and forth through different parts of a canyon that went down towards the lake, so we overlooked the whole lake from the middle of the canyon on the zipline. Unfortunately we had to use our hands to brake on the line so, no pictures!

Pana was a big change from spending the last couple weeks in Xela- it was much more touristy and gringos are definitely treated differently than we are in Xela. Pretty much everyone in Pana speaks basic English, or at least enough to say ´good price for you! business! business!´which was a little bit of a downer, as soon as we tried to start speaking in Spanish, for the most part they would switch to English. People in Xela are extremely patient with broken Spanish and really try to help you learn, which is something I definitely take for granted.

On Saturday we got up early and hopped on a boat to go to a couple different sites around the lake. In the morning we went to a town called Santiago, which was severely affected by both the civil war (which ended in 1996) and a big landslide during Hurricane Stan in 2005. We visited some of the sites where they have rebuilt and saw some serious consequences of bureaucratic inefficiency; there was an open field with about 75 uninhabited houses built out of concrete that simply lacked roofs, and about 100 feet away, about 75 cardboard shacks that people are living in that don´t even keep the rain out. The government began to build the concrete houses and then simply decided that their location was within a ´landslide hazard´zone and that anyone who lived in these houses would have their future rights to relocation in the case of a disaster taken away. Still, there are about 75 families living in shacks in the exact same spot who ARE covered for relocation in case of disaster. So there are essentially 75 perfectly good concrete houses just sitting there doing nothing, and people living in shacks right down the street, and there is no good reason why they are not being used. Ahh bureaucracy.

After a tasty lunch in Santiago, we hopped back on the boat and went across the lake to San Juan where we visited a women´s weaving co op. They do everything there from start to finish, and it is all with natural dyes. We saw the dying process which was really neat- there is one plant that gives off a brighter colour depending on where in the lunar cycle it is harvested! Pretty cool stuff. There are 18 women that work at the co op, and they run the whole business themselves...but they need a bigger market to sell their goods in (anyone interested in importing natural dyed Guatemalan weaving....?).

Sunday we came back to Xela via Chichicastenango which is an ENORMOUS textile and trinket market. It was pretty overwhelming, there was stuff and people everywhere for blocks and blocks and blocks. I did manage to find some cool stuff however...Dad, my bargaining skills have improved a lot since Mexico don´t worry!

Coming back to Xela was really nice and felt like coming home which was a great feeling to have after being in Guatemala for almost a month. Monday was back to the grind in class...we had our first essay due yesterday morning so the last couple days have been work work work! That´s pretty much the pattern from now on as our next essay is due Tuesday, and classes are pretty intensive after that.

Hope turkey weekend was good for everyone!

xo Caroline

Sunday, October 4, 2009

what a Sunday...


Wowwwawweewa, what an awesome day! I dragged my butt out of bed at 5am this morning to climb a volcano with 7 other people from the group. It was absolutely stunning and perfect weather for the hike. The volcano is called Chicabal and is about 45 minutes outside of Xela. It had a huge eruption in 1902 but has been dormant since then (phew). The volcano is about 2800 metres high, and I could definitely feel the altitude even at the change of a few hundred feet...it was a challenge to catch my breath for sure. Not that I am out of shape or anything... (note the lovely back sweat in the picture...definitely didn't notice that until I uploaded it on here. oops. sorry.) The top of the volcano is basically a huge crater from the 1902 eruption, with a lake in it that is an astounding 900 feet deep (and is maybe 100 feet across, very small). The lake is a sacred Mayan site with all sorts of Mayan altars around the perimeter of the lake- swimming is forbidden as it 'dirties' the water. Our guide was really cool, and we learned lots about the eruption, the volcano and the Mayan community around it. We were back in Xela by around 1- just in time to take part in the massive festival that is happening this weekend! Each town in Guatemala has kind of its own patron saint, and the festival for ours (something about a Rosaria....sorry for my ignorance...) is this weekend. Basically this results in a MASSIVE market in the Parque Central with all sorts of cool street food and trinkets...little rides (for guatemalan size people, I avoided getting stuck in them)....and endless entertainment!

I just thought it was so awesome that all in one day I climbed a volcano, went shopping at a huge festival market, and was back at home in time to do my readings for class tomorrow. Ahh Guatemala.

Hope you all had a good weekend!

xo Caroline

Saturday, October 3, 2009

el terminado de Habitat...and more


Friday marked the end of our Habitat build in Xela. The build was definitely an enlightening experience for a number of reasons; dealing with the challenges of building a house with very limited resources and tools, seeing different areas of Xela (the wealthy and the not-so-fortunate), meeting and developing a relationship with a local family and our masons, and also developing relationships within our own team. We were lucky within our group to have our family present every single day on our build site- Don Tomas, the father of the family who is getting the house, was there every single day putting in a huge effort to get the house up (despite having back problems as a result of the 1976 earthquake, he fell off a two-story building in Honduras...yikes). Grecia (their 16 year old daughter) was there for as much as she could be as well and we ended up becoming good friends (at least I'm pretty sure, my spanish is still crude...haha). To end off the Habitat program, we had a goodbye ceremony on Friday with all of the masons, Habitat staff and the families. Grecia had gone out and gotten each of our seven team members bracelets with our 'spanish' names woven into them (i am Carol, Ian was 'Joan', Leah was 'Lia')...it was unbelievably sweet of her and we were all definitely a little teary-eyed during the ceremony- it was a really nice way to end off the project, and Don Tomas has invited us back to the house in a few week's time when they are all moved in! Exciting stuff.


Highlights of the week: my first Guatemalan motorcycle ride, a litter of PUPPIES!, birthday party Friday night with our Guatemalan buddies at their bar, finishing the build. Class starts Monday...hard to believe!


Later gators,

Caroline